« In Primitive Arts, there is this idea of expression and body-endornment. I found it beautiful, and since that moment, I’ve wondered how to incorporate this idea into our modern world. »
Did you say TOHUM?
TOHUM means “seed” in Turkish.
But I only learned that 15 days ago, when I met the designer Verda Alaton at her home, not in Istanbul where she was born and where she has been creating her jewelry for 15 years, but in her apartment bathed in the light of Lake Geneva.
Before, I fantasized about TOHUM, especially about that cowrie necklace worn by the most famous fashion icons on the planet.
Leandra Medine, Naomi Campbell, Aerin Lauder, Kelly Rutherford, and many others have been enchanted by this now-iconic piece of jewelry, making it as desirable as a river of diamonds.
This pretty shell, shaped like a coffee bean and reminiscent of childhood treasure hunts, became iconic with the launch of TOHUM’s Concha collection.
But who’s the brain behind this brilliant idea? A mystery.
This immense success didn’t convince its creator to step into the spotlight. If you take a look at her Instagram, the stars are her jewels, displayed on an elegant yet anonymous white shirt.
I didn’t know Verda until that day in June when she emailed me to introduce her brand.
An international jewelry brand, a mysterious Turkish designer married to a Breton, living in the Alps region… Quite unusual. I immediately booked my ticket to Geneva.
In Switzerland, they take order seriously, and the courtesy of Geneva taxi drivers could make the concierge at the Ritz green with envy. The only downside to this picturesque scene was the torrential rain that greeted us as we exited the train station.
Verda was waiting for us at the base of her building under an umbrella twice her size. With jet-black hair and sparkling almond-shaped eyes, she wore shells, crystals, pearls, mother-of-pearl intertwined with gold and silver chains, creating a mysterious puzzle on every inch of her tanned skin.
Verda was waiting for us at the base of her building under an umbrella twice her size. With jet-black hair and sparkling almond-shaped eyes, she wore shells, crystals, pearls, mother-of-pearl intertwined with gold and silver chains, creating a mysterious puzzle on every inch of her tanned skin.
But what is the subliminal message conveyed by Verda’s jewelry? The contrast between the simplicity of her jeans-white shirt look and the power of her adornments clearly indicates that it’s not the clothes that define Verda, but her jewelry!
We followed her up the few steps leading to her apartment, and it was sheer bliss.
In the natural light and sandy beige hues, wooden sculptures, giant shells, raw crystals, ceramics, beautiful books, woven paintings, designer furniture, marquetry boxes, organic materials, and art objects welcomed us into their world.
The rain drumming on the glass hatch of the terrace and the sky within reach gave the strange impression of having embarked on a long journey with Verda.
As she explains the functionality of her neck rests which come from her favorite country, Mali, I realize that for a long time, she no longer defines herself by her nationality.
Born in Istanbul, a student in New York, and a senior executive in international companies in her first professional life, Verda explains to me that she traveled across all continents before establishing her brand in Istanbul in 2008.
«Everything started in New York when I was 20 years old. I walked into the Ethnic Tribal Art Gallery, and I fell in love.»
Verda Alaton
I’m all ears, mad love is my thing.
But if we’re talking about passion, Verda clarifies that it’s for Tribal Art and especially African Art that her young heart raced. In my novice head, Tribal Art refers to the imposing sculptures of the Quai Branly museum. I have a hard time seeing the connection with jewelry.
“In African Arts, there’s this idea of expression and body adornment, people wear atypical, very large pieces. I found that beautiful, and from that moment on, I wondered how to adopt this idea in our modern world.”
And then it clicked for me. From my Kabyle grandmother to all those women with their regal bearing and fiery gaze from African tribes, they all share these armor-like jewels that they wear with the grandeur of an Amazon.
And then it clicked for me. From my Kabyle grandmother to all those women with their regal bearing and fiery gaze from African tribes, they all share these armor-like jewels that they wear with the grandeur of an Amazon.
Verda will work part-time in this gallery during her 2 years of studies, thus adding to her Human Resources degree a specialization in Tribal Arts.
But she then starts an intense professional life in human resources, reserving her passion for Tribal Art for her travels by starting her collection of objects. Slowly, the idea of jewelry sprouts in her head.
The turning point is in 2008. Back in Turkey, a country where traditional craftsmanship has survived a century of accelerated industrialization, she decides to take courses with a craftsman to shape silver jewelry.
The skillful hands of Mr. Mardik, today a pillar of the workshop, create Verda’s first prototypes, which she wears herself. The TOHUM brand is launched.
“While I’m naturally shy and reserved, I feel free to wear whatever speaks to me.”
And that’s precisely what’s going to be a hit.
Verda has taken this ancestral custom to heart, daring to wear a unique collection of bulky, organically sensual jewelry with her everyday outfit.
After 10 years of success in her own country, the Concha line’s tsunami propels TOHUM to the forefront of the international scene.
In 2017, she follows her desire for naturalness and starts creating gold-plated charms directly on cowries. Barely has the new Concha line been launched when an influencer contacts her for a necklace.
Verda sends it, not realizing that this small package going from Istanbul to New York by DHL will change her brand’s life.
When she turns on her phone the following morning, her Instagram account has exploded, and the first message she reads among the countless received overnight says:
“Do you know who wore your necklace??? The girl from The Man Repeller!!!”
That girl is Leandra Medine Cohen, who is more influential in global fashion than Carrie Bradshaw herself…
In three months, TOHUM went from Beymen, the major Turkish national department store, to Net-a-Porter, which caters to luxury clientele from every continent on the planet.
Initially natural cowries are molded to be directly cast in plated metal, and both TOHUM workshops are running full throttle to produce the astronomical quantities on order. TOHUM’s life pivots, but Verda doesn’t want to upheave hers.
«This piece has been sold by the thousands worldwide, putting me in a paradoxical state. Success and fame don’t affect my ego.»
Verda Alaton
Obviously, Verda is honored. But the very next season, the pressure mounts, they have to outdo Concha.
When she presents the Dunya collection, a string of precious metal that twists onto itself to form a delightful knot, buyers ask why she is venturing into something so complicated to sell. Success becomes a trap; what to do?
Dunya will remain as she conceived it. She decides to manage cautious growth to maintain a family dimension to her company, rather than succumbing to the siren calls of rapid scaling. But above all, she retains her creative freedom.
Since then, Dunya has become an iconic collection, and the brand has since equipped itself to handle significant spikes in orders.
As I remove my tiny jewelry piece by piece to let Verda guide me in her daring combinations, she concludes our discussion on this apt paradox between creation and commercial success:
“I think the challenge for a brand like mine is to stay true to myself in creation while remaining visible.”
Challenge met. Lumia, Nomad, Samsara, Savana, Terra... All these collections that borrow from universal symbolism to create the TOHUM language have firmly established themselves over time at Matches Fashion as well as in the finest boutiques worldwide.
The small brand, born in the land of Emperor Constantine and Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, has only one bastion left to conquer… France!
The TOHUM seed has been planted in the Gaulish village; I wager it will reach the skies!
Texte Sylvie Arkoun
